Celebrating Navarathiri in Chennai

The other day, I visited a friend’s house for Kolu. For those who do not know, Kolu is a traditional doll festival durimg this time of the year in Chennai. Various dolls made from clay and other materials are arranged on a doll stand. Very often, the arrangements follow some theme. The theme at my friend’s house was “Nava Durgai.” Papers like the Hindu and the Adyar Times organize competitions and give away prizes to best-arranged Kolu. It is almost like a huge family affair at my friend’s house. Three generations of women–mother-in-law, daughter-in-law, and the grandchild enthusiastically participate. The men in the house also contribute albeit in a smaller measure. Though Kolu is mainly celebrated in south India, it may surprise many to learn that a similar doll festival is celebrated in Japan also.

During this season, if one visits Mada Street in Mylapore, you are forgiven if you think that you are not in good old Chennai, but in some village fair far away. The area is bustling with activity with dolls displayed and sold in pavement shops all along the roads. Brisk sales are going on in the shops behind the shops also. Plastic dhabbas and small trinkets (generally given as present for those visiting the kolu) are arranged in a heap–so much so, that one cannot even see the name of the shop behind. Even shops like “Indra Stores” (my favourite shop) selling stainless steel and other vessels are stocked to the maximum capacity. All these shops offer good discounts during this period. It is best to walk around the Mada streets and not travel in a car and take a good look at all the goodies offered at throwaway prices. Be careful of your wallet though and safeguard it from pickpockets.